Fresh herbs add amazing flavor and presentation aesthetic to recipes during the summertime. Their great flavors can be carried over to cooler seasons through the preservation of the plants and leaves. The two best ways to extend the life (and flavor) of herbs is through freezing or dehydrating.
Harvesting Herbs
The best time to preserve herbs is right before their flowers open. Flowering herbs can sometimes result in a bitter taste. Harvesting fresh herbs mid-morning is best, as this allows time for the sun to evaporate the dew off the plants, but not the oils, which contain the flavor. Take scissors and cut the stems just above a leaf or pair of leaves. Make sure to leave four-to-six inches of stem for later growth. Finally, rinse the herbs in water and pat them dry. Then preserve by freezing or drying!
Freezing
There are many herbs that can be frozen, such as parsley, basil, mint, tarragon, chives, cilantro, oregano or dill. Frozen herbs tend to be limp when thawed, as the cell walls rupture due to the ice crystals; it’s recommended to use frozen herbs in cooked dishes, bread dough, herb butter or sauces.
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Dry Pack: Place leaves on a tray and freeze until frozen solid, approximately one-to-two hours. Pack into an airtight container. For herbs with sprigs, such as rosemary and thyme, place a few sprigs in freezer wrap or in an airtight freezer container.
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Ice Cube Tray in Water: Chop herbs as you would if you were using them fresh. Fill an ice cube tray half full of water and place one tablespoon of herbs in each compartment. Freeze for 24 hours and then top off compartments. Freeze until solid, then place herb cubes in a freezer bag for storage. When you’re ready to use, add cubes straight from the freezer to the dish you’re preparing.
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Ice Cube Tray in Oil: Chop herbs as you would if you were using them fresh. Mix two cups of herbs with 1/3 cup of oil. Pour mixture into ice cube trays or four-ounce jelly jars. Freeze for 24 hours then place in a freezer bag. Note: Oil will not freeze solid like ice. It will be more malleable, allowing you to scrap out what you need. Do not store herbs in oil at room temperature; freeze right away. *Neutral flavored oils, such as canola are preferred. Olive oil may be used if it works with the flavor of the herb.
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​Methods for Select Herbs:
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Chives and lemon grass should be chopped before freezing, as they are thin, freeze quickly and have a limper appearance when thawed.
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Leaves of larger herbs, such as basil and bay leaves, can be blanched for 15 seconds, placed in ice water and patted dry before freezing to stop enzyme reactions.
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Dill weed, rosemary and thyme can be frozen on their stems. Wrap three-to-four sprigs in plastic wrap, then aluminum foil. Freeze.
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Storage and Use: Frozen herbs stored in an airtight container are good for up to six months when kept frozen. Since herbs have textural changes when thawed due to the formation of ice crystals, it’s best to use frozen herbs in cooked dishes, rather than in fresh dishes or as garnish.
Drying
Drying is one of the easiest ways to extend the life of herbs. There are four ways to dry herbs: air, microwave, oven or dehydrator.
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Air Drying: To air dry, pick a location with low humidity and good air circulation for five-to-10 days.
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Tie sturdy herbs, like rosemary, thyme, parsley and sage, together into small bundles and hang them to air dry away from your sink, stove or dishwasher. These appliances can increase the humidity in the area.
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Tender-leaf herbs, such as basil, oregano and mint, can be hung inside paper bags to dry, as they have a higher moisture content and can mold easier. Air circulation is achieved by tearing holes in the sides of the bag. Suspend the bunch in middle of the bag and close the top with a rubber band. The bag acts as a dust shield or seed catcher for seedy herbs.
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Small-leaved herbs can be laid out in a single layer on a tray covered with paper towels to dry. Herbs can be dried up to five layers using this method.
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Microwave: Some herbs, such as celery, parsley and basil, dry well in the microwave. Although, microwaves that have a wattage higher than 1,000 may heat too fast, making it an inappropriate drying method. Make sure to read your manufacturer’s instructions before attempting. Place herbs in a single layer between two paper towels. The amount of herbs and wattage of the microwave affects the cooking time. Start with two-to-three minutes per cup of herbs. After every 15 seconds, mix the herbs and check for doneness. Once dried, remove from microwave and allow herbs to cool. Place in an airtight container for later use.
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Oven: Set oven at 180 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. Place herbs in a single layer on a tray; put in oven, and let dry three-to-four hours with the oven door open. Note: Oven drying can destroy the herb’s color, flavor and oils.
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Dehydrator: The fastest way to dry herbs is in a controlled temperature and air circulation environment, such as a dehydrator. Preheat dehydrator to between 95-and-115 degrees Fahrenheit. Place herbs in a single layer on dehydrator trays and dry between one-to-four hours. Be sure to read your dehydrator’s instruction manual before beginning.
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Storage and Use: Dried herbs stored in an airtight container are good for up to three months when stored in a cool, dry location or up to one year in the refrigerator or freezer.
Community Gardens Provide:
Fresh Produce
Gardens provide fresh, nutritious produce for many families who couldn’t otherwise afford it, improving their diet and their overall health. They also relieve hunger by donating their excess produce to food pantries.
Healthy Lifestyles
Gardening is a chance to enjoy fresh air and healthy outdoor exercise. They provide a peaceful retreat easing stress. From a mental aspect, growing a vegetable garden may be a way for adults and children to cope with boredom and help families gain a sense of security.
A Cleaner Environment
The plants in a community garden add oxygen to the air and help reduce air pollution.
Stronger Communities
Sharing a community garden gives people a chance to connect with their neighbors. Gardeners also feel more personally invested in the places where they live, gaining sense of ownership and community spirit.
Educational Opportunities
Working in a community garden is a good way for kids to learn about where food comes from. Hands-on activities like gardening can encourage children to participate in a way that will enhance learning. Gardening can teach young, preschool- and elementary-aged children, to reinforce skills such as measurements, addition, subtraction, counting, sorting into categories and colors.
Growing your own herbs can be a great way to have fresh herbs on hand whenever you need them. It is also perfect to introduce kids, or anyone, to the process of gardening and growing your own food. Using herbs in recipes can also add flavor without adding salt. There are many herbs that can be easily grown indoors, such as basil, mint, chives, and thyme.
Find the Best Spot
To grow well inside, herbs need as much natural light as possible. Find a sunny place near a window that receives at least six hours of sun daily. Keep a lookout for signs that your herbs are not getting enough light, such as poor growth, stems that grow long between leaves, leaves that are smaller than usual, and stems or leaves that are pale or begin turning yellow.
The Best Potting Mix
Indoor herbs require a potting mix that allows for extra drainage. When getting a potting mix make sure it says it is good for indoor plants. It is best not to use soil from the ground. It will not allow the herbs to breathe and has bugs that can eat your herbs and you probably do not want in your house.
Proper Drainage
Make sure you are using a pot that has good drainage to help keep the roots from sitting in the water and rotting. Using a plastic or metal liner or drain pan under the pot to catch water will help protect the herb’s roots.
Watering
The key to watering herbs that are indoors is to let them somewhat dry out in between watering. If the top of the soil is dry about two inches then it is time to water. Soil tends to dry from the top so the soil at the bottom of the pot is probably moist. The goal is to get the roots to grow down deep looking for water. Also, water your herbs slowly. Watering too quickly allows the water to run straight through the pot before the soil has a chance to absorb it.
Temperature
Indoor herbs enjoy temperatures that most people feel comfortable in, around 65 to 70 °F. Most herbs enjoy being kept near a windowsill when temperatures drop to 55 to 60 °F but make sure none of the foliage is touching the glass to protect it from freezing. Basil is trickier. Basil should not be kept near a cool windowsill since it likes plenty of sun and warmth indoors. Basil prefers to have temperatures around 70 °F day and night.
Have you ever been able to get a seed to sprout, only to find it wilted away the very next day? Or maybe you planted a seed, watered it, and waited and waited, but nothing ever grew? Starting seeds can be a little tricky, but by following these simple steps, anyone can be successful!
Step 1: Pick your plant!
No matter what you are growing, March is a great time for almost all seeds to sprout. Some plants (tomatoes, squash, cucumber, peppers, watermelon, pumpkins) need warm weather to get going, while others (spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce) need a little cold weather to get started. March has both kinds of weather, so almost any plant will be ready to sprout if you plant it this month.
Step 2: Find some space for your little plants.
Do you have space inside or outside? If you are starting your plants inside, you will need to find a light that can be on them very closely at least 12 hours per day, with 15 being ideal. If you are starting them outside, you should make a “mini-greenhouse” for them out of an old milk container or big plastic lettuce container. Make sure to cut several little holes in the container so air can flow, and set it somewhere outside where it will get several hours of sun every day.
Step 3: Spread some soil and keep it moist
A potting mix should be good for getting your seeds started. You’ll want something light and fluffy! Press it into whatever container you are using for growing your plants (milk carton, egg carton, seed starting trays, almost anything will work). Add water until all the soil is moist, but not soaking wet. In order for your seeds to sprout, you need to make sure your soil stays moist but not soaking wet at all times! Too much or too little water is a big reason seeds do not grow.
Step 4: Plant your seeds
Put two to three seeds per hole to make sure at least one comes up. A good rule of thumb for how deep to plant seeds is two times as deep as the seed is big. Some teeny tiny seeds can just be sprinkled right on top of the moist soil. Leave a few inches of space between seeds so that you will be able to transplant them into the ground or a bigger pot after they have grown.
Step 5: Watch them grow!
Seeds will start coming up anywhere from a few days after you planted them to a few weeks. If they are outside, they will probably take longer than if they are in your warm house. Every few days check your soil to make sure it’s still moist. You will probably have to add more water to the inside plants more often than the outside ones.
Last Step! Transplant
Once your plants have grown many leaves and are looking too big for their containers, it is time to move them to their permanent home. You can either plant them in the ground, or in a big pot outside. If you are moving plants from inside to outside, you need to move them out gradually so they can adjust to the wind and colder temperatures. Set them outside for a few hours at a time each day, slowly increasing the time they spend outside over the course of four or five days. This process is very important! If you started your plants outside, they are already strong and ready to go.
Want to learn more about making raised beds and its preparations? Check out these videos.
Container gardens are the perfect place to grow healthy vegetables.
Here are a few tips from the American Heart Association.
Gardening provides different forms of engagement for children, including designing, planting, and main- taining gardens; harvesting, preparing, and sharing food; working cooperatively in groups; learning about science and nutrition; and creating art and stories inspired by gardens.
To access the article and read all about the livelong benefits, click here -
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Healthy Eating and Nutrition - ​​
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​Children who grow their own food are more likely to eat fresh fruits and vegetables.
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Garden programs often include lessons on nutrition, resulting in greater knowledge about healthy eating.
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Positive Social and Emotional Skills -
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​Youth interns in community gardens reported increases in maturity, responsibility and interpersonal skills.
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Significant increase in self-understanding and the ability to work in groups compared to nonparticipating students.
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Science Achievement and Attitudes Towards Learning -
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Participants scored significantly higher on science achievement tests than students who had a curriculum without garden experiences. ​
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Interested in finding out how to plan a low-cost vegetable garden that won’t break the budget? Then read on for all the tips!​
Budget Seeds and Plants - ​
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Try local seed and plant swaps. Remember, you’ll need to have something to swap in return.
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Look out for special offers on seed supplier websites, both before and towards the end of the growing season.
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Save your own seeds from heirloom (open-pollinated) varieties of vegetables such as tomatoes, beans and lettuce.
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Feed Soil for Free - ​
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Make your own compost. Set up a compost pile in a sunny, sheltered, out-of-the-way corner of the garden. Use recycled pallets to make sides to keep it tidy.
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Collect leaves in fall to make leaf mold, which is a fantastic soil amendment. Ask friends and neighbors for theirs too – most people will be delighted to let you have them!
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Approach farms and stables to source manure. Make sure the animals haven’t been feeding on plants treated with herbicides that could damage your plants, and make sure it’s well rotted down before using.
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Grow Plant Supports -
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Bamboo canes are free if you grow your own!
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Hazel, buddleia and any other trees or shrubs with strong, straight woody stems make excellent poles for climbers such as beans.
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Free Crop Protection -
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Use old clear plastic bottles to make mini greenhouses, polythene stretched over homemade hoops to make mini hoop houses, or recycled glass doors and windows to make cold frames.
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Use old tulle, laid double thick for extra protection, to provide shade for crops that can’t take the heat in summer.
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Shade newly-sown beds of cool-season crops like lettuce with cardboard until the seedlings germinate.
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Protect transplants with upturned pots for one or two days until they settle in.
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Cut down plastic bottles to make collars to protect seedlings against cold, drying winds earlier in the season.
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Natural Pest Control -
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Grow nectar-rich flowers in your plan to attract pest predators such as hoverflies and ladybugs. Try coreopsis, cosmos, poached egg plant and alyssum.
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Flowering herbs such as dill, fennel, parsley and coriander are loved by beneficial insects too.
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Leave some carrots and onions unharvested to flower early the next season and feed beneficial bugs.
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Recycled Containers -
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Use your imagination to select containers for plants – just make sure to punch holes in the bottom for drainage.
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Start seeds in old yogurt pots, soft fruit trays or mushroom trays.
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Make your own pots using toilet tissue tubes or newspaper. Toilet tissue tubes are great for deep-rooting seedlings such as corn or beans.
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Inexpensive Boundaries and Paths -
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Lay thick cardboard and cover with bark chippings to create a path fast and inexpensively. You’ll need to top up the bark from time to time.
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Opt for salvaged slabs, bricks or cobbles instead of new. You can make hard landscaping go further by infilling with cheaper materials such as gravel.
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Buy bare-root hedging plants in winter, as they’re cheaper than potted plants. Make it productive too – plant trained fruit trees or fruiting hedgerow plants so you get a return on your investment.
Summer is approaching and with the changing season comes the heat. ​Get ahead of it with these few tips to help you to help your plants cope with hot garden conditions this summer.
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Smart Watering - ​
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Water early in the morning when moisture evaporates more slowly. Check soil daily and water if it’s dry two or three inches below the surface. It’s best to soak the soil every few days than dampen only the surface daily.
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Mold soil into ridges around plants to create bowls to water into. That way, water will be held in place to soak in rather than running away over the soil surface. Alternatively, water into old pots or bottles sunk into the soil next to plants.
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Consider using a drip irrigation system on a timer if you’re unable to water daily in hot weather.
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Container plants may need watering more than once a day, especially if it’s windy. Make sure the water is being absorbed into the potting soil, and not simply pouring down cracks between the potting soil and container wall. Keep pouring until you see water running out of the bottom. Use pot saucers to retain the water for longer.
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Reduce Evaporation - ​
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Lock in soil moisture by mulching after watering using organic material such as compost, leaves or grass clippings. This will help slow evaporation by shading the soil and keep the root zone cooler.
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It will also help to plant densely or use vigorous sprawling plants like squashes to create a living mulch that will shade the soil.
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Stop Fertilizing -
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Temperatures above 85-90ºF can cause plants to roll up their leaves to reduce water loss, drop their flowers or stop producing new ones.
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At this point it’s best to stop fertilizing, because plants need even more water to process fertilizer. Adding nutrients also prompts the plant to grow more, which is stressful to the plant in hot weather.
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Provide Shade -
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Shade plants with shade cloth or with fabric such as tulle or old bedsheets. Plants will grow more slowly under it, but they’ll be less stressed. Support the shade cloth by pinning or clamping it onto frames or hoops.
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Cool-season vegetables like cabbage and lettuce and fruits such as strawberries will particularly benefit from shading from hot afternoon sunshine.
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Harvest -
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Harvest fruits or leaves promptly to help conserve your plant’s energy. Finish ripening fruits such as tomatoes that haven’t fully colored up in the kitchen to give your plants a break. Plants might slow down in hot weather, but they’ll return to productiveness once the weather cools.
Get the goods on growing several types of flavorful, easy-to-store legumes.
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Dry beans and peas provide as much protein per serving as well-known protein powerhouses, such as eggs and cottage cheese, with the added benefits of fiber and an array of minerals.
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Choosing varieties that suit your climate is key to growing dry beans and peas. When growing dry beans and peas in most climates, plant after your spring crops so they mature in dry fall weather.
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For all the details on when to plant dry beans and peas, harvesting and storage, saving seeds, pest and disaster prevention, tips on growing dry beans and peas, using dry beans and peas in the kitchen, and how to plant dry beans and peas, click here.
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Types of Dry Beans and Peas to Try:
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Soup Peas - are a cool-weather crop cultivated like green shell peas, but starchy soup peas are smooth rather than wrinkled. These frost-tolerant peas should be planted quite early, in cool spring weather.
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Traditional Dry Beans - look and grow like green snap beans, but the pods quickly become too tough and stringy to eat.
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Runner Beans - produce sweeter immature pods compared with other dry beans, and the plants’ showy flowers entice bumblebees. Runner beans benefit from cool nights and are easier to grow than lima beans in moderate climates.
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Lima Beans - thrive in warm, humid weather and are often resistant to pests that bother regular beans.
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Cowpeas or Crowder Peas - collectively known as “Southern peas” or “field peas,” originated in Africa and have retained their need for warm weather.
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Tepary Beans - are native to the Southwest and Mexico, where they have been part of the traditional diet for thousands of years. Tepary beans are planted during the summer rainy season. They have smaller leaves than regular beans and adapt well to the alkaline soils found in many arid climates.
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Faced with a pest problem in your garden?
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Learn how to eradicate them without the use of harmful chemicals, as those pesticides are hazardous to humans and wildlife, and most will kill beneficial insects along with the problem pests.
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Discover the 8 organic pesticide options that help manage your pest problem while simultaneously posing minimal harm to organisms you don’t want to harm, including humans. And bonus, these products are also accepted under the National Organic Program Standards, which serves as a framework for certified-organic food production.
Interested in the art of composting? Want to give it a try but have limited space in your backyard?
Try this 4 bay compact compost from Mother Earth News.
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Compost is the heart and soul of the garden, and its proper management is a core principle of gardening organically and in harmony with nature. It’s also deviously complex for its outwardly simple appearance, because we don’t understand everything about soil or compost. Compost is a living, breathing, organic, natural machine that can feed the soil and sustain our world. We only need to follow the recipe.
Learn how and when to ​plant, and how to deal with common pests and diseases naturally, setting you on your way to growing organic vegetables and fruits in your garden. Look through these comprehensive crop guides of different fruits and vegetables for step by step instructions.​
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There's guides on how to grow --
Artichokes, Asian Greens, Asparagus, Beans, Beets, Blackberries, Blueberries, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Cucumbers, Dry Beans and Peas, Eggplant, Fennel, Figs, Fruit Trees, Garlic, Grapes, Horseradish, Jerusalem Artichokes, Kale and Collards, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Melons, Okra, Onions, Parsnips, Peanuts, Peas, Peppers, Potatoes, Pumpkins, Radishes, Raspberries, Rhubarb, Shallots, Sorghum, Sorrel, Spinach, Stevia, Strawberries, Summer Squash, Sweet Corn, Sweet Potatoes, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes, Turnips and Rutabagas, Winter Grains, Winter Squash,
all on Mother Earth News.
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Recently started a new garden? Having trouble keeping garden pests away from your plants?
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Mother Earth News has the tips just for you!
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For starters, pests can't be kept away forever. Insects have refined senses and many can fly long distances, so keeping insects out of a garden is not a realistic goal. Besides, you need them. A complicated food chain exists from the soil to the treetops, and insects are an essential part of a healthy ecosystem. Some are bad guys that damage plants or spread disease, while many more are allies in pollination and overall pest control.
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What you don’t need are scads of damaging insects and a short list of beneficials, which is what you may get if you use pesticides that kill a wide range of life forms. Instead, long-time organic gardeners report success achieving a healthy balance between harmful and helpful insects by growing an abundance of herbs and flowers in or near their vegetable gardens.
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To understand the difference between damaging and beneficial insects, you'll want to first learn how to identify them. Start with these 15 pests that are common in a wide range of climates.
After you identify them, look closely to see whether beneficials are at work. Proceed to handpick if the pest populations are increasing, or if you know they will from your own experience. Keep notes of when pests appear in your garden, and be ready to prevent problems in future seasons by using floating row covers or changing your planting dates.
Pests:
Gardening is good for the mind and body. Whether you are a beginner or have a green thumb, these tips will help your garden flourish.
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​Learn how to grow different types of fruits such as cucumbers, peppers, summer squash, and/or pumpkins, winter squashes, and gourds.
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If you're looking to grow vegetables, try beets, cabbage, carrots, green beans, peas, and/or salad greens.
Make smart use of your garden space by thinking vertically. Beat the frost in the fall with these tips for extra weeks of harvest. Use your garden footage to its best advantage. Cold air sinks, so frost settles first in the lowest areas of your garden. Ground frost does not translate to frost even a foot or two higher in the garden.
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Use Your Fences
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Use Old Plants
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Use Your Topography - Dig frost channels into your higher beds to allow cold air to drain off the beds in the fall.
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Use The Sun - Know which parts of your garden receive the longest afternoon sun in the fall. The ground in these areas will soak up that warmth and release it during the night which delays frost.
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Use Your Garden Debris
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Winter Is the Time for Planning - Even though planting is over for this year, it’s the perfect time to scope out your garden each morning to see where frost settles first. Map your garden for frost pockets, dig frost channels, and plan out where to plant your late fall crop next year. Decide where you’ll build a straw bale compost bin, and install fencing in small sections between posts throughout the garden, not just surrounding it.
School gardens are living classrooms that provide students with an experiential, hands-on learning environment in which they can explore and actively participate in the process of growing food. Teachers should use gardening activities to teach lessons across multiple disciplines. Students who participate in school gardens would take pride in their accomplishments, have multiple opportunities to try new foods, learn healthy behaviors, and build an increased awareness of the environment.
Engage Students in Gardening:
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Get students excited about the growing process with a simple seed dissection using lima beans soaked in water. Refer to this lesson in Growing Healthy Habits for step by step instructions and a diagram of a seed.
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Explore seed germination using the Garden in a Glove activity, in which students will “plant” a seed in each finger of a clear food-prep glove and watch it sprout.
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Plant small container gardens by recycling food or beverage containers and thoroughly rinsing before planting.
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Engage students in gardening and a real-life water cycle experiment using the Salad Cup Terrarium. Students will observe the moisture in the soil, as it heats up and forms condensation around the lid, then cools and drops down to the soil again.
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Students will plant and observe seeds, as they sprout and grow into tiny edible gardens in a salad necklace. Once the leaves touch the lid, they can be cut with clean scissors, rinsed with clean water, and eaten.
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For a planting activity without soil, plant a Seed Baby Necklace. Students will need to wear the necklace and keep it warm and save as the seeds sprout into baby plants, also known as microgreens. The microgreens can be harvested when the plants have their first leaves
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Take your school garden to the next level with container gardens. Select a garden container that works best for your space and grow a variety of plants using this list of vegetable crops for school container gardens.
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Determine if an indoor garden, container garden, raised bed, or in-ground garden is the best choice for your program using this garden comparison chart and select the best plants to grow in your garden with this guide.
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Teach rules for safe gardening, to keep gardeners happy and healthy, and ensure the food produced is safe for consumption.
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Try New Foods:
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Have students select different plants from seed catalogs that they wish to grow in a garden. Prepare tastings of these foods and have students vote on their favorites.
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Choose a location on the globe and select a new food from that region to taste. Have students inquire about how and where the food is grown and different ways it is used.
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Showcase the foods that were grown in the garden with a harvest party. Take photos throughout the year of students working with the gardens and prepare a slideshow during the harvest party. Invite parents to join the party and share the excitement of eating what was grown.
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Encourage students to play with their food, as they make a Garden on a Plate, using this recipe from Growing Healthy Habits.
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Promote healthy behaviors from the garden:
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Encourage students to write public service announcements about the healthy food grown in the garden and read them over the morning announcements.
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Use the garden to provide physical activity during the school day by having students pull weeds, water, walk around the garden and make observations about the garden, harvest plants, and general garden maintenance.
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Have students compare how plants use water to grow and stay healthy with how people use water ask them to share their findings.
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Have students prepare tastings using food from the garden to share with their peers.
Spring and summer are the perfect seasons for gardening. Get your hands dirty with your kids and try one of these five gardening projects. These cute crafts will get your kids to put down the remote control and get outside.
1. DIY Chia Pet
How fun are these DIY chia pets? Plants make great practice for raising a pet. Your kids can "take care" of their plant pet with water and sunlight and watch it grow.
2. Jack & the Beanstalk
Turn a classic children's story into a gardening project. Your kids will love watching the beanstalk grow taller and taller over the weeks.
3. DIY Seed Bombs
Did you know you can make your own seed bombs? This is a great project for little helpers! Keep these seed bombs to plant yourself or wrap them up pretty to give as gifts.
4. Mini Flower Garden Pots
These adorable flower pots are perfect for little hands. You kids can decorate these mini planters however they'd like and then together you can raise little plants and watch them grow. You can even use these to start a fairy garden.
5. Popsicle Stick Plant Markers
Use good ol' popsicle sticksto label all of the different herbs and plants in your garden. Paint the popsicle sticks with different colors and label them with a permanent marker. These can be personalized for however you or your kids want them to look.
When we think of eating homegrown food during the cold season, we often think of staples such as potatoes squirreled away in the root cellar, or of vegetables such as winter squash stashed in a cool, dry place. But many gardeners are discovering the joys of harvesting fresh produce all winter long, which allows for feasts of cold-hardy crops that are just-picked and just right for the time of year. According to Jodi Lew-Smith of High Mowing Seeds in Wolcott, Vt., the seed-buying season used to be January, February and March. “Now there’s also a surge in June, July, August and into September for fall-planted crops,” she says. Eating from the garden is just too pleasant to give up simply because the temperature — and the snow — may have fallen.
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I don’t mean growing tomatoes in January. Fruiting crops no doubt need long, sunny days and warm conditions to complete their delicious arc of softening, deepening in color and perfectly ripening. Winter fare is about leaves, stems and roots, which mature more and more slowly as the weather cools and the days shorten. Better still, winter vegetables sweeten with the cold. If you’ve ever tasted a winter-pulled carrot or winter-cut spinach, you’re familiar with the treasures winter gardening can bring.
Climate Considerations
So, should a winter gardener grow different crops depending on her climate?
Not necessarily. Winter has always been a good season for a wide array of crops in the southern states, and in the northern tier of the United States, you can grow the same crops if you use a winter-protection device to broaden your garden’s productive season. This might be a cold frame, a simple greenhouse, the quick-hoop system, or just a layer or two of floating row cover, often called Reemay. All of these season-extension devices capture some of the earth’s natural warmth, especially at night, and block the chilling, drying effect of wind.
Leafing Out
When you’re choosing winter crops and their varieties, you’re obviously looking for cold-tolerance, but the plant’s growth habit and schedule should also influence your selection. Spinach, for example, is a hardy winter annual, which means that it germinates in fall, grows during late fall and winter, and then goes to seed in spring. Because it continually puts out new leaves, you can pick it all winter. Cold-hardy Brussels sprouts and broccoli, on the other hand, stop producing after a certain point (although their leaves are a tasty bonus you shouldn’t miss).
Here are some of the best leafy winter crops to try:
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Spinach -
This crop wins my personal gold medal in the winter leaf-crop category. Sown in late summer, it survives our coastal Maine winter in an unheated greenhouse, under just a layer of row cover. The increasing day length in spring is the major factor in spinach bolting (going to seed). Of the available varieties, ‘Space’ has done best for us — it’s very hardy and slow to bolt in spring. Lew-Smith’s trials favor ‘Giant Winter’ spinach. Well-known seed breeder John Navazio of the Organic Seed Alliance in Washington likes ‘Winter Bloomsdale,’ and is developing a superior version called ‘Abundant Bloomsdale.’
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Lettuce -
Although not as frost-tolerant as spinach, lettuce does prefer cool weather and is a great fall and spring crop, even in the coldest climates. Leaf lettuce is hardier than full-head types, especially at “baby leaf” size (closely planted and cut at 3 inches tall), and works great as a crop that can be cut multiple times. Among the cold-hardiest lettuce varieties are ‘Red Oak Leaf’ and romaines such as ‘Winter Density’ and ‘Rouge d’Hiver.’ ‘Five Star’ lettuce mix from Johnny’s Selected Seeds in Maine is mildew-resistant — an important trait if you grow in the wetter, more humid conditions of a greenhouse.
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Arugula -
Increasingly popular as a cut-and-come-again crop, arugula’s friendly bite adds pizazz to meals on cold days, without the flea beetles, bolting, or harsher flavor that come with growing it in summer. ‘Astro’ is a great performer, and ‘Sylvetta,’ which is perennial as far north as Kansas and Virginia, grows wonderfully at lower temperatures.
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Asian greens -
At Four Season Farm, we did a trial of every Asian green we could find — mostly brassicas — planted under row covers in a 50-foot, unheated greenhouse. The hardiest was tatsoi, which forms large heads of small, dark green, spoon-shaped, mild-flavored leaves — firm enough for a stir-fry but soft enough for a salad. Tatsoi survives winter by hun kering down, flat on the ground, like a round, green rug. As you harvest the outer leaves, new ones will grow in the center. A strong runner-up was ‘Mei Qing Choi,’ a dwarf bok choy whose upright leaves have crisp, white bottoms. I’m fond of feathery mizuna, pungent and thick-stemmed Chinese mustard, and an apple green, open-headed Chinese cabbage called ‘Tokyo Bekana.’ Impressively, Asian greens tend to be heat-tolerant as well as cold-friendly — they are even usable after they’ve bolted, offering still-tasty foliage, crisp stems and edible flowers.
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Chard -
Great in any season and more heat-tolerant than lettuce, chard will occasionally survive winter with no protection in my Maine garden, dying back to the ground and regrowing in spring. For winter harvest, we’ve found the most cold-hardy variety to be ‘Argentata.’
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Kale -
Of the European kales (Brassica oleracea), ‘Winterbor’ is exceptionally vigorous and more cold-resistant — though less tasty — than the deep blue-green Tuscan kales, such as ‘Lacinato.’ ‘Even’ Star Smooth’ kale, hardy to 6 degrees Fahrenheit, is tender and sweet. Hardiest of all are the Siberian types (B. napus), which are tender and have a milder flavor than other kales. Some of these, such as ‘True Siberian’ and ‘Western Front’ from Adaptive Seeds in Oregon, keep producing leaves all winter long.
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Mâche -
Too delicate to ship and scarce in farmers markets, mâche is the gardener’s reward. A winter annual, it will just sit where it’s planted after sowing until the coolness of fall coaxes it out of the ground. It is among the hardiest of winter greens, but it’s maddeningly slow to grow, with tiny heads best cut whole, at 3 inches across, and no regrowth. You’ll forgive all of that, though, because a salad of mâche is like no other, the slightly cupped leaves seemingly designed to hold a light vinaigrette. ‘Vit’ is an excellent variety for winter growing.
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Claytonia -
This delightful little plant is an unsung hero of winter gardening. A North American native also known as “miner’s lettuce,” it nourished prospectors during the California gold rush days. The nickel-sized, round, succulent leaves are mild in salads but too fragile for cooking. A winter annual, claytonia regrows speedily after repeated cuts in winter if protected from serious frost, and then bolts in spring in a cloud of tiny, fragrant white flowers.
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Parsley -
The hardiest of herbs, parsley slows its growth in winter but will sometimes survive without protection — even in Zone 5 — yielding lush, bushy greens in spring before it goes to seed. Many cooks prefer flat-leaf parsley, but curly varieties such as ‘Forest Green’ are more frost-proof. Parsley is a self-seeding biennial, so if you leave it in one spot and don’t disturb the area, you can expect it to resprout or self-sow the following year.
Rooting for Flavor
Even if you grow root crops for storage, you can treat many of them as fresh-harvested winter crops, too. In areas with minimal freezing, you can leave most of your root crops in the ground and simply dig them up as needed. Potatoes aside, this is true even for moderate freezes.
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Carrots -
I’ve seen carrots survive in Vermont under nothing but a good snow cover, though you shouldn’t depend on that. In coastal Maine, they are foolproof inside a cold frame packed with loose straw or hay, or in an unheated greenhouse beneath a layer of row cover. We make multiple sowings from late July to mid-August, but readers in warmer climates report planting as late as November. (You can plant beets on this same schedule, but they’re not as cold-hardy.) After several good frosts, winter carrots are like candy, as strong flavor compounds have receded to the background, and natural sugars — nature’s antifreeze — have stepped to the fore. Flavor declines when the day length stretches up to 10 hours, usually in late January or in February. For us, the best winter variety is ‘Napoli.’
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Turnips -
My favorite for winter is ‘Hakurei,’ a white, round Japanese variety. I get sweet, tender roots great for eating raw, and tasty tops if the temperature is kept above freezing. ‘White Egg’ is a popular storage variety in the South, but it can be winter-grown elsewhere. ‘Colletto Viola,’ from Italy, has pink shoulders and sweet, crisp white flesh.
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Leeks -
Add rich, oniony flavors to your winter salads and soups by including some leeks in your mix of winter crops. This is likely the most universally grown winter crop in European households. Look for one of the winter varieties, of which we prefer ‘Lexton.’ Leeks need to be planted early in spring for harvest in winter.
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Radish -
This fine crop needs protection from frost but loves cool weather. We’ve succeeded with ‘Tinto’ and ‘D’Avignon,’ a French breakfast type. Navazio recommends ‘Cherry Belle’ for flavor.
Jumping into Winter Gardening
Don’t limit your harvests to summer!
No matter your region, you can grow cold-hardy winter crops that have proved they can take biting temps. Just follow these winter gardening tips from one of the foremost four-season gardeners in the country.
Winter gardening is surprisingly easy. The pace is slow, weeds are few, and low light levels cut down on evaporation and can even eliminate the need for watering from mid-November to mid-February in most areas of the country. Try lots of crops to see which work best for you. With each, start with the least protection you might need (some crops may surprise you), and then decide how accommodating you’re willing to be. Experiment with timing to find a rhythm that works, putting in new crops wherever you see an empty space. Make lots of compost to give your crops an extra boost. Also, keep in mind that you should fear heat more than cold. Remember to vent cold frames, quick hoops and greenhouses on sunny days, lest you trap hot air inside and then prematurely “cook” your greens.
You may be thinking herbs are too expensive to buy at the store so instead, try out some of these options!
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You can plant herbs in small pots and keep them near a window inside your house.
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Many neighborhoods have community gardens—even in the city. Does yours? Ask around. Do a google search.
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You don't need much space to try planting an herb garden, but you do need sun. Pick a spot that gets at least eight hours of sun each day.
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Drainage is also important. For this reason, raised beds or containers can be better than placing your seeds or seedlings right into the ground.
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Some herbs need more water than others. Research the types of herbs you're planting to determine how much water is needed.
Interested in growing your own vegetables? Next time you buy vegetables, don't throw out the scraps!
Use those veggie stems, ends, and seeds to regrow them into plants instead of throwing them away. This is a great, kid-friendly activity that allows kids to watch how their food grows. ONIE has provided some tips to help you get started. Growing your own plants is not hard and you can do it in your own kitchen! This activity does not require much, just some food scraps, water, toothpicks, a bowl, and eventually, some potting soil and/or an outdoor growing space!
Celery
Remove two inches from the base of a bunch of celery and place in a shallow bowl with water. Spray the top daily to keep it moist. Every couple of days replace with fresh water until a new root appears, then you can transplant into the ground or gallon-size pot with potting soil.
Green Onions
Save the white bulb of your green onions with a small amount of the pale green section. Place it in water on a sunny windowsill. Keep the water fresh and snip the green portions off as they grow, and cook with them! You can transplant green onions to a pot with some soil, or outdoors.
Lettuce
Save the base of your lettuce! Place it into a bowl of water and replace the water every one to two days. By two weeks you will have enough fresh leaves for a side salad or sandwich.
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Note: this will not make a new full head of lettuce but will give you some extra lettuce to add to your meals.
Potatoes & Sweet Potatoes
Next time you have extra potatoes, cut the potato in half, stick toothpicks into the sides of your potato and place into a clear cup, allowing the toothpicks to rest on the rim of the cup. Place the potato, cut side down in shallow water. Within a few days, roots will begin to grow from the bottom while purple/green stems will appear from the top. Then cut the potato in two-inch pieces and let them dry out for a couple of days. Plant them directly into the ground in early spring and enjoy homegrown potatoes by summer.
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If you have potatoes that have been left in the back of your pantry for too long and they already have purple/green sprouts, you can just cut the potatoes, (keeping at least one sprout per section) let them dry out, and then plant them.
Tomatoes
Plant the seeds from your tomatoes into a small pot, keeping them moist at all times on a windowsill, and wait for a new plant to emerge. Once the plant reaches several inches tall, (make sure your window gets at least six hours of full sunlight per day, or supplement with a lamp!) transplant to a gallon pot or outside once the threat of frost is gone.
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Note: Try growing unique varieties from the Farmers Markets this season!
After you’ve bought or grown some transplants, the most important step is just what you’d expect- transplanting them! In order for the plant to grow up healthy, you have to make sure to choose a nice, sunny spot with plenty of nutrients, and room to grow!
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Choose a good location
Vegetable plants love the sun! In fact, they require 6-8 hours of it every day. Especially if you live in an urban area, spend a day watching how the shadows move, and make sure the spot you choose gets enough sun to make your plant happy! If you notice that nowhere in your area has enough sun, try growing herbs or lettuces, as they are more shade tolerant.
OKLAHOMA NOTE: Although plants love the sun and need it to survive, in the heat of the summer, some plants, like tomatoes, may need a shade cloth over them because the sun can be overpowering.
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Use good soil
Vegetables rely on their roots to provide them with the nutrients they need to produce vegetables. If they are hungry, you will be too! The breakfast of champions for almost all vegetable plants is Compost. Any amount helps and it’s almost impossible to use too much. Did you know you can get compost for free in Norman? Or you can make it yourself!
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If you plant in containers, make sure they are big enough
Do you live in an area without a yard but still want to try your hand at gardening? No problem! The key to success is planting in a big enough container- generally one 5 gallon container per vegetable plant. Make sure you have holes in the bottom of it so that the water can drain, use a light, fluffy soil (with some compost in it!), and put it where it gets plenty of sun. Also, containers dry out more quickly than plants in the ground, so make sure to water often!
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Let’s get started!
Here is a quick video demonstrating how to carefully take plants out of their containers, and transfer them into the ground or a container. Happy food growing!
If you have kids, you may have already started gardening with them, maybe they've grown up gardening, or maybe they've never planted a thing in their lives. No matter how much they know about gardening, they can enjoy these easy-peasy projects for their originality, the fun of seeing results quickly, and the ability to do them both indoors and out. You can actually start most projects indoors then move them to containers outdoors. Best of all, with many of these projects, kids can literally eat the fruits of their labor. It's a win-win activity for all.
1. Grow Celery in a Dish
Growing celery from the bottom of a bunch is one of the easiest and most satisfying projects to do with kids. To start, all you need to do is to buy a bunch of celery and then place the celery bottom in water. In a day or two, you should see growth. Once it roots, you can plant the celery bottom in a container or in your garden and grow celery stalks or leaves, which are great for cooking.
2. Grow Garlic Greens in a Can
Another all-time favorite kid-friendly project is growing garlic greens indoors. One of the best things about this project is having the spindly but tasty greens to cook with in the winter, which is a treat for parents. When fully grown, they resemble long, skinny scallions.
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This project requires a little patience since it takes a while for the garlic to grow. Fortunately, it is worth the wait. Rest assured that once the shoots emerge, they grow quickly.
3. Grow a Vine from a Sweet Potato
To sprout a ​sweet potato, you submerge half of it in water. This will grow into a cool plant. A huge bonus is that you can eat the young leaves and stems, both of which are really tasty.
What's more, you can gather the sprouts, also known as slips, and plant them outside in your garden or in a container. They need lots of sun and take 100 to 140 days to produce sweet potatoes, but it's not difficult.
4. Grow a Garden in an Eggshell
You simply hold an eggshell and use a needle to poke a hole in the bottom. Then put something porous over the hole, such as a piece of plastic window screening, a paper towel, or a coffee filter; all of these work as long as they are just big enough to cover the hole.
The kids can paint or draw faces on the eggshells and even give them names.
You then fill the eggshell about three-quarters full with potting soil. Plant oat or wheat grass seeds, covering them with more potting soil. You have to keep the soil moist and the easiest way to do this is to spray water on them with a spray bottle. The seeds sprout pretty quickly.
5. Grow a Garden in a Mason Jar
Mason jars are fashionable and for good reason. You can use these inexpensive jars for both drinking glasses and food storage. You can also turn them into cool terrariums.
There are two ways to do this. The first couldn't be easier: You simply get a tiny plant, leave it in its tiny pot, rest it on the lid of the Mason jar, and then invert the glass over it and screw it shut.
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The second way to do it is to take a tiny plant out of its little pot and plant it in the lid of the jar. You'll need a little moss to make this look finished. And the upkeep for these plants is very easy to follow.
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In appreciation of and gratitude for the North American Tribal Nations and Indigenous Peoples, KidsGardening is sharing some of what we have learned about the wisdom and sustainability of Native American techniques for cultivating food and fiber crops. Many of these techniques solve challenges posed by the locale and climate, and are still in use around the world for efficient, low-input, sustainable crop production.
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The term indigenous describes groups or populations that have a long history of settlement and connection to a specific region. It is often used to describe groups that inhabited regions around the globe during "pre-colonial" or “pre-Age of Discovery/Exploration” eras; that is, prior to the arrival of Europeans and others whose colonization forever changed the lives of their populations.
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There are hundreds of indigenous peoples in North America, with differing languages and cultures. (There are 564 federally recognized Tribes in the US; the estimated number of all Tribes is close to 1000.) To summarize their farming philosophies and techniques is to paint a picture in broad strokes.
However, a few unifying principles stand out, such as:
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An understanding of the connection and interdependence of all things.
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A respect for the land and a reverence for the sustenance it provides.
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A vision that sees beyond present needs and a desire to preserve the land for future generations.
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Indigenous cultures weave food cultivation and preparation into the fabric of everyday life.
Here are a few examples of sustainable growing techniques:
Terracing
Steeply sloped land is vulnerable to soil erosion when fast-draining water forms gullies that carry precious topsoil away. Erosion problems are exacerbated when trees and other vegetation are cleared to make way for crops. One way to mitigate runoff is to create terraces by carving a hillside into a series of flattened areas, with soil held in place by retaining walls. From a distance, a terraced hillside has a stair-step pattern. There's evidence that this agricultural technique has been in use for thousands of years.
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Terracing slows the speed of draining water, allowing it to soak into the flat areas planted with crops.
Canals
A steady supply of water is critical for growing most crops. However, in many places water is in short supply, or the region may be inundated with water for a short time followed by extended dry spells. Indigenous peoples around the world construct canals and catchments to direct and contain water, so it can be used for irrigation as needed.
Flood-Cropping
In regions with somewhat predictable flood patterns, indigenous peoples have devised systems to take advantage of this seasonal water availability to irrigate their crops. One technique involves timing the sowing and harvesting of crops in floodplains to coincide with the rising and receding floodwaters. Another technique involves creating large, shallow depressions in the land. When floodwaters recede, these depressions remain filled with water, providing an irrigation source. Also, the soil in the depressions stays moist for planting long after the surrounding areas dry out.
Chinampas and Floating Gardens
Chinampas are artificial islands made by layering interwoven reeds, other vegetation, and mud in wetlands and shallow freshwater lakes. This crop system is thought to originate with the Maya people in Belize and was prominent in Aztec agriculture; it is still used in some regions. The gardens are lush and highly productive due to the nutrient-rich mud; however, much labor is required to keep the mud and vegetation from washing away in heavy rain. Sometimes the gardens are made with layers of soil and organic matter atop a buoyant raft of woven straw and were truly floating.
No-Till Growing
Although tilling chops up weeds and soil clods and leaves an area of flat, bare soil that is easily planted, it has significant downsides. Tilling damages soil structure by breaking up soil aggregates, resulting in powder-like soil particles that are vulnerable to compaction. It can create a hardpan layer beneath the tilled area that is impervious to water. And it devastates soil life. Gardeners and farmers are rediscovering ways to garden without tilling — methods that many indigenous peoples have used for thousands of years and continue to use to this day.
Companion Planting
The Three Sisters Garden is a familiar example of companion planting. The term refers to growing techniques in which several crops are planted together so that each provides benefits to the others. In a Three Sisters Garden, the benefits are many: Corn provides support for the bean vines; beans "fix" nitrogen into a form the other plants can use; squash shades out weeds, etc.
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Also called intercropping, the technique of growing complementary crops together is thousands of years old. Much of the lore about companion planting is based on traditional growing systems that were developed by indigenous peoples over many generations.
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In tropical regions, indigenous peoples created interwoven systems of agriculture and forestry (agroforestry) that provided them with resources over many generations. Food forests can be considered a type of companion planting: Trees provide shade from intense sun, low-growing plants conserve soil moisture, etc.
Having access to fresh fruits and vegetables is easy if you have your own pallet garden, but what if you live in an urban area?
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The concept of an urban veggie garden is becoming more popular, and it’s easy to start your own with the right space and the right materials. Even if you’re new to the idea of gardening, you can still start your very own urban vegetable garden at home.
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Where to Set up an Urban Garden
You might be surprised to know that urban gardening can be done anywhere. If you’re lucky enough to have a backyard, designate a section solely for your garden. However, if you live in a small condo or apartment, you can still enjoy gardening at home. Talk to your landlord and see if they’d be willing to allow a rooftop garden in a shared common space. A rooftop garden is fun to maintain, and you can share gardening tips and delicious food with your neighbors. Even a small balcony can be transformed into a garden using pots and small planters. As long as you have enough sunlight and live in a decent climate, you can start a garden anywhere. For those with limited space, consider indoor gardening using a mini greenhouse or pots with a grow light. Whatever you choose, you can set up your garden at home for a fun way to plant, grow, and eat your favorite vegetables.
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Materials Required
Once you’ve chosen a location for your urban garden, you’ll need to gather some important materials. While urban gardening is similar to growing a garden in a rural area, there are a few things you may need to do differently. Use this checklist to ensure a successful urban garden set up:
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A selection of seeds or small plants that you know will grow in your specific zone
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Gardening soil (soil in cities may be contaminated or lack the proper nutrients)
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Pots, large containers, or materials to make a raised garden bed or greenhouse
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Plant food
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A watering can or a hose with a sprinkler nozzle
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Pruning shears, a trowel, and some quality gardening gloves
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Plant markers to label your fruits/veggies
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If you have the room, a composting bin is a great addition to an urban garden
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How to Plant Veggies
It’s important to know how to plant your vegetables the right way to make sure your new garden is healthy and productive. While you may need to tweak your planting to suit your climate or your location, there are some basics that everyone should know for successful urban agriculture.
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Keep seeds and small plants separated by type to prevent the spread of disease and overcrowding.
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Plant your seeds at the time of year based on the specific species so that they grow before it gets too cold.
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Use a quality garden soil and fill your garden bed or container about halfway full, then cover the seed or roots with soil until it reaches the top.
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Water your plants regularly, but don’t overwater them or it could cause root rot.
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Use eco-friendly pesticides to protect your plants from getting destroyed by pests.
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Cutaway the dead parts of your veggies to encourage new growth.
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Start with veggies that are easy to grow like herbs, lettuce, and cucumbers. As you gain confidence, you can get creative with new vegetables.
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Tips and Tricks
Urban farming is easy once you get the hang of it, but there are a few extra tips and tricks you can use to make the process go smoothly.
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Grow a mini herb garden in small pots on your kitchen windowsill. Most herbs like plenty of sunlight, and you can grab some as you cook if they’re nearby.
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Pay attention to how the sun rises and sets on your balcony or rooftop to strategically place your plants in an area where they’ll get maximum sunlight.
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If you’re short on space, consider a vertical garden you can grow on a wall or fence to maximize your harvest.
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Leafy greens like spinach, lettuce, and bok choi grow well in partial sun or shady areas.
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Fertilize your veggies regularly with an organic fertilizer to keep them healthy.
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If your neighbors have an urban garden, consider growing something different and then trading your veggies for maximum benefit.
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Use a trellis to support climbing vine veggies like peas, beans, and gourds.
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Add color to your garden by incorporating some flowers. Grow the flowers in pots so you can move them around as needed.
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If you can’t use a hose, choose plants that will get enough water via a watering can.
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Use grow lights and bring your veggies inside during the winter to keep the harvest going.
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A Mini Greenhouse in your Backyard
Although urban living can feel cramped, there’s no reason why you can’t garden your own veggies at home. One easy way to cultivate and enjoy urban gardening is to create your very own mini greenhouse. Greenhouses keep plants warm, protected, and healthy. You can also garden year-round when you have a mini greenhouse, which makes the idea even more appealing for city dwellers. If you want to create a mini-greenhouse in your backyard or patio, there are a few things you need to know before you begin.
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Materials Required
A mini greenhouse uses small everyday objects and household items to recreate the same environment as a standard-sized greenhouse. You can make your mini greenhouse from several different materials, so consider these options to help you get started:
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Use a one or two-liter soda bottle and cut off the top. Attach several together using a hot glue gun and fill them with dirt and plant your seeds. Cut small slits in the top section of the bottle, then replace it to keep moisture and heat in while your veggies grow.
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A Mason jar makes a fantastic mini greenhouse. Simply fill it with dirt, seeds, and small rocks and then replace the top to create a small terrarium.
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An old fish tank is a perfect alternative to a standard greenhouse. Fill the fish tank with small pots or use it as a large terrarium. Add a lid using plastic wrap to keep moisture and warmth inside.
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Connect four picture frames of the same size together using small nails or screws. Remove the backing of the frames and just use the glass and the main frame as the structure for your mini greenhouse to create a box-like structure. You can attach another frame to the bottom or leave it as-is and place it on a table or balcony. Create a roof for your greenhouse with four more frames and attach it with hinges so you can open and close it whenever you need to water your plants.
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Create a greenhouse frame by connecting PVC pipes together with T-joints and elbow joints. Place the frame over a raised garden bed and cover it with clear plastic or a lightweight cloth to recreate a smaller version of a greenhouse. You can adjust the size to suit your needs, but make sure you space each section about two feet apart so it’s secure and sturdy.
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Setting Up and Using your Greenhouse
Once you decide which style greenhouse you want to use, it’s time to set it up for gardening. Choose an area where your greenhouse will get plenty of sun and try not to place it near the edge of the balcony where it might accidentally blow off or get knocked over. Make sure your greenhouse has proper drainage or else it could cause root rot. Drilling or cutting small holes in the bottom will allow extra water to escape. Try to keep one type of veggie in each greenhouse so that it can thrive. Certain plants may overtake others if they’re in a cramped space together.
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If you’re planning to keep your greenhouse indoors, use grow lights to ensure that your veggies are getting enough light. Put the lights on a timer so that it mimics the same cycle of sunlight they’d normally get outdoors. Greenhouses are great for starter seeds, so use yours to get your vegetables strong and ready for outdoor planting. You don’t have to use your mini greenhouse just for veggies, either. They’re also a great option if you want to grow cacti and succulents or flowers like orchids. And don’t forget your herbs! Monitor moisture levels in the greenhouse since too much water can cause fungal diseases.
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You don’t need a horticulture degree to enjoy an urban orchard garden, container garden, or greenhouse. With a bit of practice and some knowledge about plant life, it’s easy to enjoy a beautiful, fruitful urban garden right in your own backyard.
If you’re tired of the frustrating battle against the weeds popping up in your gardens, here are a few all-natural strategies to keep your gardens weed-free all year long.
1. Corn Gluten Meal
This is one time you may not want to go gluten free! Many university studies show corn gluten meal to be an effective pre-emergent herbicide (a pre-emergent prevents seed germination). It is an all-natural alternative to synthetic pre-emergents and it has no known ill effects for human health or the environment. Since corn gluten stops seeds from sprouting, make sure that you don’t use it in any spot where you’d like to plant seeds within the next year or two.
2. Plastic and Fabric Weed Barriers
Weed barriers are a no-fuss way to keep weeds out of the garden for years to come. You can use weed barriers in vegetable gardens, but because you might change your plantings around from year to year, this means that you may have to replace the weed barrier yearly.
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Where weed barrier really stands out is in permanent perennial beds. Lay the sheeting down, making sure to cut holes wherever you plan to place landscape perennials and then cover the fabric with mulch, grass clippings, fall leaves or something else to hide the plastic or fabric sheets.
3. Newspaper and Cardboard
Many gardeners would rather keep plastics out of their gardens. If this sounds like you, then try recycling newspapers and cardboard as weed barrier instead. The advantage to these two materials is that they’re readily compostable, which means that you can easily till them into your vegetable gardens and reapply each year.
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If you decide to use newspaper, make sure to avoid toxins by using non-glossy pages and black and white ink. Today, the vast majority of newspapers use organic soy-based black ink, which is safe for your gardens.
4. Mulch
Tree bark mulch wood chips are old standbys for weed management, and they can be used on their own or as a covering for your weed barrier of choice. However, store-bought bark and wood mulch isn’t your only option. Grass clippings and straw can be used as mulch, so long as it is relatively free of weed seeds. You can also use whole or shredded tree leaves as mulch.
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A couple of particularly stubborn weeds may still grow through your mulch of choice, but far fewer than will grow on bare soil. In addition, no matter which type of mulch you use, you’ll be adding nutrients to your garden beds and you’ll increase the soil’s ability to retain water.
5. Go No Till
When you till the soil, you’re essentially planting weed seeds that were once laying on the surface of the bed. In addition, you’re exposing any previously buried weed seeds to that ray of sunlight they need to sprout. As such, no-till gardening is a great way to reduce weeds in your garden — and save you the countless hours you spend tilling each spring!
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No-till gardening works especially well when you allow a layer of organic material to cover the surface of your beds. This layer can be mulch or it can be last year’s foliage. Either way, if you adopt this gardening method, you’ll wind up with fewer and fewer weeds each year.
6. Pack Plantings Tightly
One of the best ways to keep weeds out of your gardens is to not give them any room to grow. We all love to see some space between our plantings, but if you can pack your plants instead — or use groundcovers to choke weeds — then you’ll never need to worry about weeding again. As a general rule, this tactic works best in landscape plantings since many vegetable plants need quite a bit of space to mature.
7. Off with Their Heads!
It happens to the best of us — life gets in the way and before you know it, weeds have grown up and long since bolted. As the old saying goes, “One year’s seeds, seven year’s weeds.” Therefore, before you start ripping them out of the garden, however, gently clip off the seed heads so that you don’t scatter the seeds in your garden as you pull the weeds.
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​There are many weed-busting strategies, but these are some of the most effective. Give them a try, and you’ll find yourself spending a lot less time weeding and a lot more time enjoying your gardens.
Exploring Herbs
Gather your little gardeners & explore the many uses of herbs! Looking for recipes and activities?
This is the video for you!
Morning & Evening Gardening
Beat the heat: Summer gardening with young gardeners.
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Attractive wrapping adds excitement, intrigue, and beauty to any gift-giving occasion, and it’s an especially cherished part of holiday festivities. The thrill of seeing wrapped presents and the anticipation of counting down days until they can be opened are beloved traditions.
However, this annual extravaganza featuring loads of wrapped gifts has a dark side. According to the National Environmental Foundation, during the holidays (Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day):
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The amount of trash produced in America increases by about 25%, or about 1 million extra tons per week.
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38,000 miles of ribbon are discarded — enough to wrap around the planet, with some to spare.
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Especially troublesome are plastic-laminated boxes and papers, as well those with metallic coatings and/or added glitter. These non-recyclable materials are often tossed into recycling bins, require time-consuming separation or even the rejection of entire lots of recycling due to the “contamination” caused by their presence.
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Fortunately, with a few simple (and fun!) changes to our gift-wrapping habits, we can all reduce the amount of waste we generate without giving up our cherished traditions.
Reuse!
If you can convince everyone to slow down and unwrap gifts in a mindful way, you can fold and reuse the paper. Yes, for some it’s become part of the tradition to open gifts in a wild frenzy. But slowing down offers opportunities for practices of patience and gratitude — lessons important to both kids and adults.
Upcycle!
The possibilities are endless! Cut scraps of gift wrapping into small pieces to use as gift tags. Gather old maps, pages from seed and plant catalogs, and sheet music to use as wrapping paper, or cut them into pieces to make collages. Do you have a pile or drawerful of your children’s artwork? Help them select some to repurpose as wrapping.
Make the Wrapping Part of the Gift!
Picnic baskets, flower pots (especially if you decorate them yourself!), tea tins — even watering cans! — can be perfect vessels to hold gifts.
Use Biodegradable Materials!
Choose boxes and wrapping materials made from natural fibers, such as cardboard, paper, jute, cotton, raffia, and hemp. Avoid boxes and wrapping materials with plastic or metallic coatings or added glitter, as well as ribbons made from synthetic (non-biodegradable) materials such as polyester or nylon. In the example below, a gift is tucked into a simple cardboard box that is filled with shredded paper and then tied with a jute ribbon.
Get Crafty!
Transform tissue paper into special wrapping with simple prints using rubber stamps, block prints (a cut potato works great!) or leaf prints.
In the example, a permanent paint pen was used to apply paint to the fern, which was then pressed on the paper. This technique was easy, inexpensive, and required minimal clean-up.
Go Natural!
Sprigs gathered from the outdoors, such as evergreens, red-twig dogwoods, winterberry, and holly are “naturals” for accenting boxes and wrapping.
Wrap with Fabric!
Decorating gifts with cloth wraps is an ancient practice that is receiving renewed attention. In particular, a Japanese technique called furoshiki is simple and lovely. Although you can purchase special furoshiki wraps, the technique simply requires a square piece of fabric. The example below uses a silk scarf, which is a gift in itself.
Eat a Rainbow
Learn what phytonutrients are and the meaning behind "Eat a Rainbow."
Looking for advice on how to grow your own garden? Look no further!
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Check out their very informative site for information on plant and grow seeds, free garden markers available to download, and gardening tip sheets!
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Food Hero also has a youtube channel filled with easy to follow garden lessons for anyone.
Soil Prep
Making Plant Pots from Home
The Beauty of Pollinators
Enjoy this video about pollinators and how you can grow a pollinator-friendly garden.
Bonus- there is a fun pollinator journal activity provided at the end. All you need is a pen/pencil and paper and you are all set!
Get your hands dirty with soil art!
Have some fun outdoors by making art with nature's gift.
Fall Greens !
Get ready for fall! Learn what it takes to plant some greens.
Learn the basics of gardening by browsing through this gardening playlist.
Pumpkins
For tips to getting started on growing your pumpkins, check the video below. It includes recipes from EatFresh.org & Cookingmatters.org
Edible Flowers
Some blossoms add beauty to the garden, but they also offer a pop of flavor and color to a variety of dishes.
Click the video to find out which flowers are safe to eat & how to add them to your recipes.
UPDATE: JMG will be hosting Virtual Facebook Live Plant Growth and Development classes. Sign up today - it's free!
The Junior Master Gardener is an international youth gardening program. Their mission is to ignite kids passion for learning, success, and service through interactive gardening education.
They are currently hosting Facebook Live National Group Meets, twice a week at 1pm (CST) throughout the month of April, 2020 as well as most of May, 2020.
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These sessions are FREE ! And are approximately 20 minutes long. Also, if you happen to miss a session, you can always catch up on any previous sessions anytime !
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These sessions will be exploring topics such as Plant Growth and Development as well as Life Skills and Career Exploration with fun garden activities included.
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For more information CLICK HERE
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Check out their Facebook HERE
Schedule of Facebook Live Sessions
Session 1 - April 2nd (Thurs) Hamburger Plant --> Session Available , Handout -
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Session 2 - April 7th (Tues) P.L.A.N.T. Needs --> Session Available , Handouts -
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Session 3 - April 9th (Thurs) Oxygen Factory --> Session Available , Handouts -
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Session 4 - April 14th (Tues) Plant Parts We Eat --> Session Available , Handouts -
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Session 5 - April 16th (Thurs) Plant People --> Session Available , Handout -
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Session 6 - April 21st (Tues) Paper Pots --> Session Available , Handout -
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Session 7 - April 23rd (Thurs) Leaf-and-Seed-Sort --> Sessions Available 1 2 , Handouts -
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Session 8 - April 28th (Tues) Plant Parts Rap --> Session Available , Handout -
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Session 9 - April 30th (Thurs) Seed Science --> Session Available , Handouts -
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Session 10 - May 5th (Tues) Flower Dissection --> Session Available , Handouts -
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Session 11 - May 7th (Thurs) Gallon Greenhouse --> Session Available , Handout -
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Session 12 - May 12th (Tues) Propagation Demo --> Session Available
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Session 13 - May 14 (Thurs) Plant Scientist Interview --> Session Available
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Session 14 - May 19 (Tues) Share What You Know Service Project ! --> Session Available
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To be sustainable is the ability to carry on an activity indefinitely with minimal impact on the environment.
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To practice sustainable gardening, we must be aware of impacting:
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Water availability
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Off-site water quality
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Energy use
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Landfill space
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Fire-safe landscaping
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Soil degradation
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Spread of invasive plant species
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Protection and enhancement of wildlife habitat
Here are some tips to get you started:
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Place your plants in windows that receive a decent amount of light.
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Use grow lights to expand the range of plants you can grow successfully.
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Prep a windowsill garden area. Protect your windowsill/area from water damage by placing individual saucers to catch the drainage.
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The Edible Schoolyard Project was established 25 years ago in partnership with a public middle school in Berkeley, CA.
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The program is dedicated to transform the health of children by designing hands-on educational material in the garden, kitchen and cafeteria. An edible Education engages children to learn and use food through growing, processing, cooking, eating, studying, talking and thinking about food. This encourages children to develop skills, knowledge and behaviors that will enrich their lives.
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Today the program advocates for school meal programs that provide free, regeneratively-farmed meals for children K-12.
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The Edible Education 101 was created in conjunction with the Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley, CA and partnered with the University of California, Berkeley to provide a series of hybrid public lectures that is offered to undergraduate students and members of the public.
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The next class is “Soil to Soul” which will be held in Spring 2020 which aims to guide students to develop a personal understanding of how one’s choices, actions and behaviors affect the system.
In the “Resource Library” tab you can also find free lesson plans in 12 different subjects that include science, math, ecology, food system, STEM, and much more.
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Below are a few gardening lesson plans that are offered: